Gračanica is a monastery of five small domes rising from a Kosovo plain a few kilometres south-east of Pristina, and it is one of the most graceful medieval buildings in the Balkans. King Stefan Milutin of Serbia had it built around 1321 on the site of an older church, and its cross-shaped plan, tall drum-shaped domes and bands of brick and stone make it a masterpiece of the late Byzantine style. UNESCO lists it among the Medieval Monuments in Kosovo.
Inside, the frescoes are what stop people talking. They were painted in the early fourteenth century, in deep blues and reds, and show Milutin with his queen, scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin, and a Last Judgement. The figures have a calm, elongated elegance. The monastery is an active convent and its nuns tend the garden and run a small shop, so dress modestly, speak quietly and ask before taking photographs inside, as rules vary.
The monastery stands in a village that is predominantly Serbian, within a country whose population is mostly Albanian, and the history of the region is painful and recent. The monument has been under international protection since the war of 1999, and you may see peacekeeping soldiers or police at the gate. Visitors are welcome, but it is a sensitive place, and politely listening and not discussing politics is the safest approach.
Pristina, about ten kilometres away, is a lively, young capital with a grand library of white metal mesh, a huge statue of Skanderbeg and cafes full of students. Lipljan, the nearest town, is small. Roads are decent but traffic can be heavy and drivers impatient. Kosovo uses the euro, and fuel and food are easy, with grilled meat, flija pie and strong coffee on every corner. Check the insurance rules for foreign vehicles at the border, since the green card requirements have varied, and allow time for formalities.