Government Camp takes its name from an episode of frontier misfortune. In the autumn of 1849, a detachment of Mounted Riflemen heading west over the Barlow Road found the going so hard that they left their wagons at a spot near here and carried on without them. The place became known as the government camp, and the name stuck, a small piece of American history on a modern resort village at the foot of Mount Hood.
Today the town is a ski community strung along US 26, at roughly twelve hundred metres. In winter the streets fill with skiers, and in summer with hikers, mountain bikers, and riders heading up to Timberline. The buildings are alpine in feel, with timber and steep roofs, and the mountain looms behind them with its glaciers and its summit often in cloud. The air is cool and smells of fir, even in July.
The ride here is a long, pleasant climb. US 26 comes up from the Portland side through the forest, with steady grades and sweeping, forgiving bends, and the road is well maintained and generally quick. It is a busy highway, so you will often be sharing it with trucks, campervans, and weekend traffic. Beyond the village, the Timberline road branches off and climbs more steeply, and the Mount Hood Scenic Byway continues down the east side toward Hood River. Snow can arrive early and linger late, so the high section is best ridden from late spring through autumn, and ice is possible well into the warm months at night.
Services are practical. There are lodging, cafes, and a few small shops, and the town is used to hungry and cold visitors. Fuel is more doubtful, and the safe bet is to fill the tank down the hill, around Mount Hood Village and the Sandy area, before the climb. Eighteen kilometres of road separate Government Camp from the nearest bigger settlement, which is not much until you are on a bike with an empty tank. The mountain weather changes fast, so carry a rain layer even on a bright morning, and enjoy a hot drink while you wait for the clouds to move off the peak.