Gotemba lies on the southeast skirt of Mount Fuji, at the foot of a vast, gently rising slope of black volcanic ash, and the mountain fills the sky to the northwest on any clear day. The city has about eighty thousand people, so fuel is easy, and this is one of the best places to fill the tank before or after the mountain roads of Hakone. Stations are plentiful along the main road, and many are staffed, which in Japan means someone will fill the tank for you and guide you back onto the road.
The town sits at around 450 metres, a modest height, but the air feels cooler than in Tokyo, and the evenings can be fresh even in summer. Gotemba is known for its rice, grown in the fertile volcanic soil with clean water that comes down from the mountain, and for its outlet shopping centre, which draws crowds from Tokyo. To the east lies the Fuji Speedway, one of Japan's most famous circuits, and the area is popular with car and motorbike fans. On race weekends the roads fill up quickly, so check the calendar.
The best thing about Gotemba, for riders, is the road that leaves it. West of the town, a road climbs the slopes of the volcano, through forest and then across barren cinder, to the fifth station where hikers start their climb on the Gotemba trail. East and south, the Otome Pass road climbs toward Hakone, with views of Fuji at its best when the weather allows. The bends are smooth, the gradients easy, and the surface is excellent. Weekday mornings are quietest.
The Fuji Five Lakes lie a short distance to the north, and many riders make a night of it in the area. A hot bath in the evening, followed by a plate of noodles or grilled fish, is hard to beat. The weather around Fuji changes quickly, so carry rain gear, and remember that the summit is often hidden for days at a time. Typhoon season, from late summer into autumn, can bring heavy rain and strong winds, so it is worth checking forecasts. Spring and autumn are the most reliable times for clear views of the mountain.