Goshikinuma, the Five-Colour Ponds, are a cluster of small lakes in the Urabandai highlands of Fukushima Prefecture, and their story begins with a violent morning. In 1888 Mount Bandai erupted and its northern flank collapsed in a huge landslide, burying villages and damming rivers. The water that backed up behind the debris formed hundreds of lakes and ponds, among them the large lakes of Hibara, Onogawa and Akimoto. Goshikinuma is one of the smaller results of that disaster, and today the place is peaceful beyond belief.
The ponds are known for their colours, which range from emerald to cobalt to a milky turquoise, depending on minerals, depth, light and the season. A nature trail of a few kilometres winds around them through beech and larch forest, boardwalks crossing wetland, and it is a gentle walk even in riding boots, though a lighter shoe makes it more pleasant. Autumn is the standout, when the foliage reflects in the water; in early summer fresh green dominates, and in winter the area is deep in snow.
The riding around here is part of the Bandai highland roads, with moderate climbs, smooth bends and forest on both sides. The surface is usually good, and traffic is light except in peak colour season, when cars queue at the viewpoints. Weather moves quickly in these hills: mist can drift off the lakes, and a bright morning can turn cold by afternoon. Take care in autumn when wet leaves can make corners slick, and be alert for wildlife, as Japanese black bears live in the region, though they generally avoid people.
For supplies, Inawashiro, around ten kilometres away, is the most convenient bigger town, with fuel stations and food, and Kitakata, known for its ramen, is a little farther. In the highlands, cafes and souvenir shops near the trailhead sell hot drinks and local snacks, and the area is known for buckwheat noodles. Go early, before the tour groups arrive, and the ponds are so still that the reflection looks more real than the trees.