Gorodets claims to be older than Nizhny Novgorod across the river, and it may be right. A fortress was founded here in the twelfth century, and a story links it with the legend of Kitezh, the invisible city that sank into a lake to escape the Mongols. The old chroniclers called it Maly Kitezh, Little Kitezh, and the legend gave the town a magical aura that still clings to its image. Whatever the truth, the town was an important military point on the Volga in the Middle Ages, and was burnt and rebuilt more than once.
What it is famous for now is decoration. Gorodets painting, a style of bright folk art with roses, horses, birds and tea-table scenes, grew up in the nineteenth century on furniture, spinning wheels and wooden toys, and it is still done by local craftsmen. The town also bakes gingerbread, in carved wooden moulds, and has a quirky museum of samovars. Along the main streets stand merchant houses with elaborate carved window frames and painted shutters, a style so lavish that the tourist office has made a brand of it, the Terem houses, with bright colours and fantasy gables. It is a cheerful and rather sweet place.
The Volga here is wide and slow, held by a reservoir behind the dam at Nizhny, and the town sits on a high, steep bank. The riding on the right bank, between Nizhny Novgorod and Gorodets, is gentle, with lorries and a lot of commuter traffic near the cities, and calmer roads beyond. The surface is mostly good, and the corners are open and easy. In summer, expect heavy traffic on weekends, with Nizhny families heading for the water. Rain can come suddenly, and the wind off the river can be sharp even in July.
Fuel and food are easy. Gorodets has several stations, and the larger town of Zavolzhye is only a few kilometres away, so you can stock up on whatever you need.
Take a stroll along the main street and look up at the carved windows. It is a quiet delight.