North of Nice, the valley of the Paillon cuts up into the mountains, and Lucéram, Berre-les-Alpes and L'Escarène are small, stone-built villages along its length. The landscape is a little wilder than the coast, with olive terraces on the lower slopes giving way to pine forest and bare limestone higher up, and the air carries a scent of thyme and warm rock. The Paillon is a seasonal river, often almost dry in summer and surprisingly fierce after autumn storms.
The valley has a strong history. For centuries, the road through L'Escarène was part of the Route du Sel, the salt road that carried salt, olive oil and other goods between Nice and Piedmont, and mule trains used the old paved tracks that you can still find in the hills. L'Escarène has a large baroque church that shows how wealthy the trade made the village. Lucéram, perched on a hillside, is known for its collection of late medieval altarpieces, painted by artists of the Nice school, in its church, and its streets of narrow, vaulted lanes are good for a stroll. Local specialities include olive oil and a rustic bread.
For motorcyclists, this is a gateway to the Alpine Maritime backcountry. From Lucéram, the road climbs to the Col de Turini, a famous pass that features in the Monte Carlo Rally, and into the forests of the Mercantour. The corners are tight and technical, with hairpins and steep drops, and the surface is generally good. The valley road is also fun, with a rhythm of bends and tunnels. Fuel is scarce: Lucéram and Berre have little, so fill up in Contes, a town of nearly seven thousand people that has several stations, before you leave the coast.
Autumn is the best time, with clear air and quiet roads, though the first snow can fall high up in November. In winter, the Turini can be closed, so check before you go. The ride has taken you around the Verdon and over the mountains, and this valley feels like a calm last chapter, with the sea close at hand.