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Gorges de la Nesque

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The Gorges de la Nesque is a road that cuts across the limestone rim of a canyon, with sheer cliffs on one side and a drop of several hundred metres on the other. The Nesque river, which flows from the Monts de Vaucluse, has carved a gorge about twenty kilometres long and as much as four hundred metres deep through the plateau, and the road, the D942, follows the cliffs high above the river, with a series of belvederes, short tunnels and long, clean bends. It runs between Villes-sur-Auzon, on the western side, and Sault, on the lavender plateau, and it is among the most beautiful drives in Provence.

The riding is pure pleasure. The road has a good surface, steady gradients and wide, open curves, with excellent visibility, and the tunnels are short and well lit. The only drawbacks are the summer traffic, with campervans and cyclists slowing the pace, and the occasional rockfall after storms. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times, when the light turns the cliffs golden and the air is cool. In spring the hillsides are green, in autumn the oaks turn bronze, and in summer the heat is intense, with the smell of thyme and baked rock rising from the slopes.

The most famous viewpoint is the Belvédère du Castelleras, high on the cliff, which looks across the gorge to the pale limestone of the opposite wall. Not far away, the Rocher du Cire, a sheer cliff of rock, is home to peregrine falcons and other raptors, and its name means Wax Rock. Wild boar, foxes and golden eagles live in the scrub and forest, though you will rarely see them from the road.

At the eastern end, the road climbs to Sault, where lavender fields cover the plateau and in July turn the land purple. The village sells lavender honey, nougat and essential oil. Sault has a handful of cafés and shops, and the view from the village over the plateau is lovely.

For fuel, do not count on the villages. Mazan, about fifteen kilometres from the gorge, has stations and supermarkets, and Carpentras, a larger town, is a short ride beyond. Start the day with a full tank, carry water, and enjoy a quiet lunch in Sault.

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