Gonur Tepe lies deep in the sands north of Mary, at the end of a long track into what was once the delta of the Murghab river. Today the river runs dry long before it gets here and the desert has taken over, but four thousand years ago this was the capital of a Bronze Age civilisation that archaeologists call Margiana, or the Bactria–Margiana Archaeological Complex. Palaces, temples, fortifications and huge cemeteries have been excavated from the mounds, and walking among the mud-brick foundations in the silence of the desert is eerie and moving.
Much of what we know comes from the Soviet and later Russian archaeologist Viktor Sarianidi, who spent decades working here. He uncovered a walled palace complex, what he interpreted as fire temples, and royal burials with wagons, animals and grave goods of gold, silver and fine stonework. Theories about Gonur's connections to the early Indo-Iranian peoples, to Zoroastrianism and to the cities of the Indus are still debated, which is part of its fascination: you are standing at the edge of something only half understood.
Getting here is a proper desert ride. After the irrigated farmland north of Mary, the asphalt gives way to rough tracks across salt flats and sand. Conditions change with the wind and season; some sections are hard and fast, others deep and soft. A heavy road bike will struggle, and most visitors come by four-wheel drive with a local guide. Turkmen visa rules and permits apply, and a guide is often required for sites like this anyway. Do not attempt it alone, and never in summer heat.
The desert around Gonur is not empty. Saxaul shrubs dot the dunes, gerbils and jerboas leave tracks in the sand at night, and in spring there is a short burst of flowers. At sunrise and sunset the mounds glow orange and the shadows of the old walls stretch across the ground, making the plan of the city suddenly legible.
Mary is the base, with fuel, hotels and markets, and you should leave with full tanks, extra water and a plan for getting back before dark. The reward is having one of the oldest cities in Central Asia almost entirely to yourself.