The Gombori Pass is the doorway between two Georgias. On one side lies the dry, open country of the Iori valley and the capital's hinterland; on the other, beyond the ridge, the lush Alazani valley that is the heart of Kakheti wine country. The road crosses the Gombori range at roughly 1,600 metres, climbing through thick oak and beech forest in tightly packed bends, and for the rider it is a short, sweet change of scene: cool shade, damp leaves, and a drop into a different climate on the other side.
The corners come in tidy sequences, mostly medium-radius with a few hairpins, and the surface is usually serviceable though prone to patches, loose gravel at the apex, and the occasional cow. Fog is common. Cloud banks up against the ridge from the west, and it is entirely possible to ride up in thick mist and come down into bright sun, or the reverse. Trucks use the pass too, so expect to slow behind a diesel cloud on the climbs. Stay out of the middle of the bends when visibility drops, and avoid riding it in heavy rain after dark.
Wine is the story. The Gombori crossing is the usual route for Tbilisi families heading to Kakheti for harvest time in autumn, when roadside stalls sell churchkhela, the walnut-and-grape-juice candy that hangs in strings like candles, and jugs of new wine. The area around Telavi, Tsinandali and Sighnaghi has a wine tradition thousands of years deep, and the old method of fermenting grapes in buried clay qvevri is a point of national pride. The forest here is also home to wild boar and a good number of birds, though you are far more likely to see sheep.
The best bet for fuel is Sagarejo, on the western approach, or Telavi on the east. The pass is open all year in principle, but winter can bring ice and snow, so it is best between late spring and autumn. Early morning gives the clearest air, and the late afternoon light as you descend toward Kakheti, with the Caucasus lined up across the valley, is superb.