The Golestan Palace sits in the middle of Tehran, behind high walls, and the first impression on stepping in is how quiet it is. A city of many millions presses against the gates, but inside the gardens there are fountains, tiled pavilions, shaded paths and the smell of damp earth and roses. The complex grew over the Qajar dynasty in the nineteenth century, though its origins go back to the Safavid citadel. It is where the Qajar kings held court, received foreign envoys and amassed a collection of gifts, and UNESCO listed it in 2013.
The buildings show a fascinating mix of influences. Persian tilework, mirrors cut into thousands of fragments for the famous Hall of Mirrors, European paintings, crystal chandeliers and carved wooden screens sit together. The marble throne, the Takht-e Marmar, stands on a terrace overlooking the garden, and the palace museum displays royal gifts, carpets, and objects. Naser al-Din Shah, who travelled to Europe and returned full of ideas, shaped much of what you see, including the photographic studio, as he was an enthusiastic early photographer.
As for riding, Tehran is a challenge. The traffic is dense, drivers and motorcyclists weave between lanes, and motorbikes of every size mix in a loose flow. Air pollution can be heavy, particularly in winter when a temperature inversion traps smog against the mountains. The best approach is to move early, stay alert, and avoid rush hours, and parking near the bazaar is difficult. Many visitors prefer to use the metro for the last part of the journey and leave the bike somewhere safe.
The nearest large amenities are all in the city, which has fuel, food and hotels in abundance, though note that fuel purchases may involve local rules and cards, so ask. Parand, to the south-west, is a smaller satellite town where the ride begins, but the palace itself belongs to old Tehran, near the Grand Bazaar, where you can find dried fruit, saffron, carpets and copperware.
Nearby, the Alborz mountains rise to the north, and on a clear day the snow-covered peaks of Mount Damavand, a volcanic cone over five thousand metres high, can be seen from the heights of the city. Visit in spring or autumn, as summers are scorching and winters cold. Palace opening hours vary and different buildings require separate tickets, so check before going.