Golestan means the land of flowers, and the national park that carries the name is Iran's oldest, set aside in 1957 on the northern slopes of the Alborz mountains. It is a place of sharp contrasts. On one side, the dry steppe of the Turkmen plains, with wheat fields, horses and long horizons, stretches toward the Central Asian border. On the other, the humid forest of the Caspian slopes rises into mist, with ancient oak, hornbeam and beech. In a few hours you can pass from desert scrub to dense green woodland.
The nearest town is Kalaleh, about thirty kilometres away, with some 34,000 people, and it has fuel, shops and simple restaurants. A little farther on, Gonbad-e Qabus is home to a remarkable brick tower, nearly fifty-three metres high, built in 1006 as a tomb for a local ruler, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The region's Turkmen people are famous for their horses, their carpets and their hospitality, and a market day in the small towns is a bright and noisy affair.
The ride through the park climbs a road of tight bends and steep gradients, shaded by trees and often damp. Wildlife is the reward: leopards, brown bears and wild boar live here, though you are unlikely to see them, and the birdlife is rich, with eagles, vultures and woodpeckers. Surfaces vary, and rain can leave mud and fallen branches on the road, so ride with care. Winter brings snow on the heights.
Spring and early summer are the best seasons, when the meadows bloom and the air is mild. In autumn the forest turns red and gold. Carry water and food, since services are few, and fill the tank in Kalaleh or Gonbad before you go. At dusk the forest is full of sound, with birds calling and leaves rustling.