The cliffs here really do turn gold. Golden Gate Highlands National Park lies in the eastern Free State, in the foothills of the Maluti mountains on the border with Lesotho, and its great sandstone walls, layered in ochre, orange and cream, glow in the low light of morning and evening as if lit from within. The most famous formation is the Brandwag, a tall, isolated buttress that looks like a sentinel over the valley. Altitude ranges from about 1,900 metres to well over 2,700 at the highest points, so the air is cool and thin.
The park has a mix of grassland, wetland and sandstone ravine, home to black wildebeest, blesbok, eland, zebra and many smaller creatures, and it is one of the places where you can see the bearded vulture, a huge, rare bird of prey that nests on the high cliffs. Fossils of early dinosaurs have been found in the rock, and traces of San rock art can be found in shelters. A Basotho cultural village within the park shows traditional houses and crafts, a reminder of the people who have lived in these hills for generations.
For riders, the road through the park is a gem. The R712 winds between the cliffs and across the grassland, with long curves, sweeping views and little traffic, though you must slow down for animals and for tourists who stop to take photographs. Entry fees apply, and speed limits are enforced in the park, so be sure to ride at a gentle pace and respect the wildlife. Weather can change in minutes, with cold, mist and rain in the afternoons in summer, and snow possible in winter, so carry extra layers and waterproofs.
Within the park, there is a rest camp with accommodation and a restaurant, but fuel is not available, so fill the tank beforehand. The nearest big town is Phuthaditjhaba, about twenty kilometres away, with all services, and Clarens, a pretty village with galleries and cafés, is a short ride to the west. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for the light on the cliffs, and the evening sky, far from city lights, is spectacular. Book accommodation in advance for holidays, when the park is popular.