St. Mary is where the mountains end and the prairies begin, and the change is dramatic. Behind you, the peaks of Glacier National Park rise in a wall of rock and snow, and in front, the land opens into rolling grassland that stretches east for hundreds of miles. The little settlement at the park's eastern entrance is a handful of motels, a store and a few places to eat, but it sits in one of the most spectacular positions in Montana.
The land to the east belongs to the Blackfeet Nation, whose reservation borders the park and whose people have lived in the shadow of these mountains for centuries. To them, the peaks are sacred, and the area is known in their language as the Backbone of the World. The town of Browning, about thirty-seven kilometres away, is the tribal headquarters, and has the Museum of the Plains Indian and a good selection of shops and services. The reservation is a place of vast skies and big-hearted hospitality, and the Blackfeet name appears on many places in the park.
For a rider, St. Mary is a crossroads. US Highway 89 runs north to the Canadian border and south toward Browning and the Rocky Mountain Front, a lovely open road with long views of the peaks, though strong winds are the rule. The wind here is famous, and it can blow steadily at forty or fifty miles an hour, so be ready for crosswinds, especially on the prairie sections. Another road leads to Many Glacier, a deep valley with lakes and a historic hotel, a worthwhile excursion for a long day.
Fuel is available in the St. Mary area, but supplies can be limited and prices are higher than in the towns, so top up when you can. Browning, Cut Bank and Babb are other places to refuel, and distances are long, so do not push your luck. Check opening times for restaurants and stores, which can be short outside summer.
The best time to ride is on a still morning in July or September. Summer afternoons bring thunderstorms and heavy winds, and a sudden drop in temperature, while the autumn light is crisp and golden. Prairie dogs and ground squirrels scatter ahead of you, and hawks wheel on the updrafts. Whichever way you head, the mountains look their best in the rear-view mirror at the end of the day.