At low tide on the coast of Gochang, the sea pulls back so far that it seems to disappear, leaving a vast plain of mud, sand and shell banks glistening in the light. These tidal flats, called getbol in Korean, are among the richest on earth, teeming with crabs, shellfish, worms and the birds that feed on them, including rare migrating shorebirds that stop here on their journeys between Siberia and Australia. Gochang's flats are part of the Getbol, Korean Tidal Flats, listed by UNESCO in 2021.
Gochang is a county of surprises. Its dolmens, ancient stone tombs from the first millennium BC, are among the densest concentrations in the world and are also UNESCO-listed, with hundreds of massive stones scattered across the hillsides. The walled fortress of Gochang Eupseong, also called Moyangseong, has a local tradition of women walking the walls with stones on their heads to bring good health. Seonunsa, a Buddhist temple in the hills, is famous for its camellias in spring and red spider lilies in autumn.
The riding along the coast is relaxed and scenic, with flat roads running past rice fields, salt farms and fishing villages, and the tidal flats stretching out to the horizon. Inland, the hills offer more curves and wooded roads. Traffic is light outside the towns, but watch for farm vehicles, scooters and the occasional slow-moving truck. Winds off the Yellow Sea can be strong, and the weather changes quickly.
Gochang town has fuel, shops and restaurants, and larger towns like Buan and Yeonggwang are within reach. The county is famous for two delicacies: grilled freshwater eel from the Pungcheon river area, rich and smoky, and bokbunja, a sweet wine made from Korean black raspberries. Fresh seafood from the flats, clams, crabs and octopus, is another highlight.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when migratory birds pass through in large numbers and the weather is mild. Summer can be hot and humid, with typhoons possible, and winter brings cold winds off the sea. Walk out onto a boardwalk at low tide, listen to the popping and clicking of countless crabs in the mud, and watch the tide creep back in across the flats.