Goa is known for its beaches, but this part of it is something quite different. Near Sanvordem, in the south of the state, the land rises into the forested foothills of the Western Ghats, and the landscape is a mix of red laterite earth, cashew plantations, areca palms and small rivers. The area has long been associated with iron-ore mining, which left terraced hillsides and rust-coloured roads, and the town of Sanvordem still carries the character of a working place.
Goa was a Portuguese colony from 1510 to 1961, and the Portuguese influence is visible in the churches, the architecture, the food and even the names of the people. In Old Goa, not far to the west, the great Basilica of Bom Jesus holds the relics of St Francis Xavier, and the nearby Se Cathedral is one of the largest churches in Asia. Inland, the spice plantations around Ponda offer shaded walks among pepper vines, cardamom and vanilla, and a lunch served on banana leaves.
The roads inland are quieter than the beach routes, with long, winding stretches through jungle and farmland. Surfaces are mixed, with smooth tarmac in places and potholes in others, and monsoon rains from June to September can wash out stretches or leave them slick with mud. Trucks carry ore and goods along the main roads, and cows wander freely, so stay alert. Fuel is available in Sanvordem and other towns of a few thousand people, and the road north toward Sindhudurg passes small stations at regular intervals.
Food in Goa is distinctive, with fish curry and rice, pork sausages and vindaloo, and a sweet, layered cake called bebinca. Cashew feni, a strong spirit distilled from the fruit, is the local drink, and a small glass is enough. The best season is from November to February, when the air is dry and the sky clear.