Glover's Reef lies some fifty kilometres off the coast of Belize, a ring of coral enclosing a lagoon of turquoise water dotted with patch reefs, with a handful of small sandy cayes on its rim. It is one of only a few true atolls in the Caribbean, named after a pirate, John Glover, who is said to have used it as a base in the eighteenth century. Part of the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System listed by UNESCO, it is a marine reserve where fishing is controlled, and its waters are home to sharks, rays, turtles, groupers and an extraordinary variety of corals and fish.
The cayes are tiny, with palm trees, a few cabins and research stations, and nothing else. Visitors come for diving, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing, and to enjoy the feeling of being at the edge of the world. The wall dives on the outer edge of the reef, where the coral drops into the deep blue, are famous among divers. There are no roads, of course, and no vehicles; the only way to get there is by boat, usually from Dangriga, Hopkins or Sittee River on the mainland, a journey of a couple of hours across sometimes choppy seas.
So your bike stays on the mainland, and the good news is that Belize has some excellent riding. The Hummingbird Highway, running from Belmopan to Dangriga, is one of the most scenic roads in Central America, winding through the Maya Mountains with jungle-covered hills, rivers and citrus plantations, and it is paved and well-maintained. The Southern Highway continues to Punta Gorda through villages and forest. Watch for speed bumps, cyclists, dogs and sudden tropical downpours, and avoid riding at night. The rainy season, roughly June to November, brings heavy rain and the risk of hurricanes.
Dangriga is the main town on the coast, with fuel, shops and restaurants; it is also the heart of the Garifuna culture, with its music, drumming and food, such as hudut, a fish and coconut stew with mashed plantain. Belizean food also includes rice and beans, stew chicken and fresh seafood. Leave your bike in a secure place before taking the boat, and pack light. Out on the reef, put on a mask, float above the coral and watch the fish; after days on the road, it is a different kind of freedom.