Glomfjord sits at the end of a short fjord arm in Nordland, on the Helgeland coast just south of the Arctic Circle, and it is a company town in the way that only Norway can manage: a place built around hydropower, in a landscape that looks as if it were designed for a postcard. The power station was built in the early twentieth century to use the water from the mountains, and an industrial plant followed, so a village of about twelve hundred people stands where the steep slopes meet the water.
The place has a dark episode in its past. In September 1942 a small group of British and Norwegian commandos sabotaged the power station in Operation Musketoon, an attack that damaged the plant and the German war effort but cost most of the raiders their lives after they were captured and executed. The story is told locally, and a short visit to the village makes more sense once you know it.
The landscape around is the real draw. Above the village lies the Svartisen glacier, the second largest in mainland Norway, and a boat or a short drive from the area gets you to its tongue, a fading blue wall that has retreated noticeably in recent decades. The riding on Rv 17 is the sort that Norwegians call the coastal route, the Kystriksveien, a succession of ferries, tunnels, bridges and fjord arms, with spectacular views over islands and mountains, and with a ferry timetable that organises your day. The road surface is good, the speed limits are low and the tunnels are long and damp, so keep your visor clear.
Fuel and food are limited in Glomfjord itself, so check your tank when you pass through. The nearest larger centre is Ørnes, a short drive to the north, and it has a petrol station and a few shops. In summer the long days give you plenty of time. The air here is damp and clean, and after rain the waterfalls come down the mountain slopes in white threads. Finish the day with a walk by the water and a bit of fish, since you will have earned it.