Glendalough, the valley of two lakes, is a hollow gouged out by a glacier in the Wicklow Mountains, with a pair of dark, still lakes between steep, wooded slopes, and at its foot a ruined monastic city that is one of the most important in Ireland. The place feels sheltered and still, and the stone ruins look as if they have grown from the hillside. It is only about an hour from Dublin, so it is also one of the busiest places in the country on a fine summer weekend.
The monastery was founded in the sixth century by Saint Kevin, who is said to have lived here as a hermit before followers gathered around him, and for centuries it was a centre of learning, with students coming from across Europe. The great round tower, about thirty metres high and still standing, was a bell tower and refuge in times of attack. Around it are a ruined cathedral, a small church with a chimney-like belfry known as Saint Kevin's Kitchen, and an old graveyard with Celtic crosses. Vikings raided the monastery several times, and it was finally ruined by English forces in the fourteenth century.
The best riding in the area comes with the roads that lead to it. The Wicklow Gap road climbs from the valley over a bleak moorland pass with wide views, while the Military Road, built by the British after the 1798 rebellion to flush out rebels from the hills, crosses wild bogland past Sally Gap, with long straights and open curves. The surface can be rough in places, and sheep wander freely on the unfenced stretches. Weather changes quickly, with mist and rain common, and the high ground can be cold even in summer.
The visitor centre has a cafe, and there are pubs and tearooms in Laragh serving hot food. The main car park charges a fee and fills up fast, so aim to arrive before ten in the morning, or in the late afternoon, when the crowds thin and the lakes are quiet.