The Glaubenberg is one of those passes that rewards you for taking the less obvious option. At 1,543 metres, it crosses the ridge between Sarnen in Obwalden and the Entlebuch valley in the canton of Lucerne, through a landscape of open moor and scattered spruce that feels remote even though it lies in the middle of Switzerland. Much of the high ground is a military training area, and the road can be closed on days when firing is scheduled, so it is wise to check before you plan around it.
The moorland is the highlight. The Glaubenberg lies within the Entlebuch biosphere reserve, where raised bogs, wet meadows and traditional alpine farming have been preserved together. The peat is deep, the plants are specialised, and in early summer the cotton grass makes white patches across the dark ground. Dragonflies, curlews and, with luck, black grouse live in the quiet corners. It is a landscape that asks for slow riding.
The road climbs from Sarnen through forest in a series of tight bends, then emerges onto the moor, where the gradients ease and the corners become longer and more relaxed. Much of the surface is narrow, and there are a few rough patches, especially after winter, so a steady speed is sensible. The descent toward Flühli and Sörenberg is open and fast, with views toward the Schrattenfluh, a wall of limestone cliffs that stands guard over the valley.
In winter the road is closed, and in a snowy spring it may open late. Summer mornings give the best conditions, when the mist lifts off the moor and the air smells of wet grass and resin. A warm layer is wise, because the moor is open and the wind can be cold.