Glamoč is a quiet town of the high Dinaric country in western Bosnia, set on the edge of the Glamočko Polje, one of the large flat karst fields that characterise this region. These poljes are rare features, broad basins with no outlet for surface water, and they flood in some springs and turn into rich pasture and farmland in summer. Around the plain rise bare mountains, including the long ridge of Staretina and the Hrbljine range, and the wind blows steadily across the open ground.
The town itself is modest, with roughly four thousand people, and its history is that of a frontier. A medieval fortress stood nearby, the Ottomans took it, and the area passed through the hands of various rulers before the modern Yugoslav period. The 1990s war drove many people out, and the district has lost population since. What remains is a quiet place of farms, small shops and a lot of empty hillside. The region is known in Bosnia for its mountain pastures, and the livestock raised on them: lamb, sheep's cheese and smoked meats are the sort of food you will often be offered in this part of the country, while the wild landscape draws walkers and a few bird watchers.
For riders, the roads around Glamoč are a gift. The road from Livno climbs onto the plateau, crosses the poljes in long, fast, open lines, and then drops through forest toward Drvar and the Unac area. The corners are relaxed, the views are huge, and there is often almost no traffic. On the other hand, the road surface can be inconsistent, with patches of repair and some rough sections, so keep your speed within what you can see. Weather changes fast at this altitude. A sunny morning can turn into a cold wet afternoon, and even in July it is wise to have a warm layer.
Glamoč has the basic services of a small town, but for a reliable fuel plan, Livno, about twenty-seven kilometres away and a good deal larger, is the safer choice. Stop for a coffee, take a moment to look across the polje, and enjoy the unusual sense of having a large part of Bosnia to yourself.