In the far southwest of Rwanda, a small patch of forest surrounded by tea plantations is home to one of the most charming wildlife encounters in Africa. Gisakura forest lies on the western edge of Nyungwe National Park, near the tea estate that shares its name, and a large troop of Ruwenzori colobus monkeys lives there, black and white with long tails and flowing capes of fur. Watching them leap through the canopy, sometimes in groups of dozens, is a joy. The forest is a remnant of the great montane rainforest that once covered these mountains, isolated now by the tea fields.
Nyungwe itself is one of the largest and oldest montane forests in Africa, covering a vast area of ridges and valleys along the border with Burundi. It is home to a remarkable variety of primates, including chimpanzees, which can be tracked with guides, as well as several species of monkey. The birdlife is spectacular, with many species found only in the Albertine Rift. A canopy walkway near the Uwinka visitor centre lets you walk high above the forest floor, suspended between trees on a swaying bridge, with views over the ridges and valleys.
The tea estates around Gisakura are beautiful, with bright green rows of bushes covering the hillsides, workers in colourful clothes picking leaves, and the smell of tea drying in the factory. You can visit some of them to learn about the process and taste the result.
The main road through Nyungwe, linking Huye in the east with Rusizi on Lake Kivu in the west, is one of the most spectacular in East Africa: a smooth ribbon of asphalt winding for kilometres through the forest, with endless bends, steep climbs and descents, and views over the forested ridges. Traffic is light, but watch for buses, trucks and the occasional troop of monkeys on the road. Stopping is restricted in the park except at designated places, so plan accordingly.
Fuel is available in Rusizi and Huye, but not inside the park, so fill up before entering. Rusizi, also called Cyangugu, sits on the southern tip of Lake Kivu, a lovely spot to end a day. The weather in the forest is cool and wet, with rain at any time of year; bring waterproofs and a warm layer. Rwanda drives on the right, and roads are generally well maintained.