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Giri Mosque and tombs

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Not everything in the Taxila valley is Buddhist, and the Giri mosque and tombs are a reminder of a later chapter. The Islamic centuries left their mark here too, in small mosques, tombs and shrines on the plain, built after the Muslim dynasties arrived from the north-west and the old monasteries had fallen into ruin. UNESCO's Taxila listing, from 1980, covers a long run of history, and the Islamic period is part of it.

The details of this particular mosque and its tombs, who built them and when, are not facts I can state with confidence, and the best guide is the local sign or the site custodian. What you can say is that the setting is typical of the valley, with a modest building of brick and plaster in a dry, open landscape, and that these small monuments were part of everyday religious life long after the grand Buddhist foundations had faded.

The district itself is full of interest. The Grand Trunk Road, one of the oldest roads in South Asia, runs close by, following a route used since the Mauryan period and rebuilt by Sher Shah Suri in the sixteenth century. Mughal emperors passed along it on their way between Kabul and Lahore, and the Sikh armies of Ranjit Singh later swept through. The valley's villages grow wheat, maize and sugar cane, and the smell of woodsmoke and baking bread drifts across the fields at dusk.

For motorcyclists, the area is a relaxed afternoon out of Islamabad. The roads are generally well surfaced but busy, with trucks, buses and overloaded rickshaws, and the highway has hazards such as sudden stops and drivers who overtake on blind bends. Smaller roads are quieter but dusty. Summer heat is severe, and the best season is autumn to spring. Haze can limit visibility, and fog sometimes comes down in winter mornings.

Fuel is no problem near the capital, with stations at regular intervals, and Rawalpindi, a little over twenty kilometres away, has a lively bazaar and plenty of repair shops. Small cafes sell tea, kebabs and fresh bread at low prices.

Plan to arrive before the afternoon heat, and take a hat, water and a small donation for the custodian, who is usually happy to talk.

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