Girdwood is a ski town tucked into a valley of rainforest, and it seems an odd thing to find in Alaska until you see how much snow the Chugach Mountains collect. The town lies at the head of a green valley a few miles from the sea, with glaciers hanging from the peaks above and a hotel and chairlift complex, Alyeska, at the top of the road. Its streets wind between spruce and hemlock, and the air smells of rain, resin and cold water.
The town has had a hard history. The original settlement stood nearer the sea, on the flats of Turnagain Arm, until the great earthquake of 1964, which dropped the ground by several feet and let the tide flood the town. The old townsite was abandoned and the community rebuilt on higher ground, and the ghost forest of dead spruce, killed by salt water, can still be seen from the highway along the arm. The area was a gold-mining region in the early twentieth century, and an old mining creek, Crow Creek, still attracts visitors who like to pan for gold.
The ride here is among the best in Alaska. The Seward Highway runs along the shore of Turnagain Arm from Anchorage, a long, glorious road between the water and the mountains, with beluga whales sometimes visible from the roadside in summer and Dall sheep on the cliffs. The surface is mostly good, but the road is busy in summer, with tour buses, trucks and campers, and fast traffic with limited passing opportunities, so patience is wise. A strong wind often blows along the arm, and the tides here are among the biggest in North America, creating a bore tide that can be watched from the shore at certain times.
Girdwood has a modest set of services, with a petrol station, a few cafés and restaurants, a grocery store and several lodgings, so it is a good place to stop and fill the tank. Local food leans toward salmon, halibut and craft beer, and the restaurants serve hearty meals that suit cold weather. Rain is frequent, and temperatures even in summer can be cool, so carry a waterproof layer and warm gloves.
Take a short drive up to the ski resort if you have time. The tram climbs to a spot with a view over the glaciers, and the whole valley seems to open out below.