The word geyser comes from this place. Geysir, the original, sits in the Haukadalur valley in the south of Iceland, in a patch of steaming, bubbling ground that has been famous for centuries. The great Geysir itself has been mostly dormant for long periods, waking now and then after earthquakes, but its neighbour Strokkur more than makes up for it. Every few minutes the water in the pool domes up, turns a glassy blue and bursts into the air, typically ten to twenty metres high, before collapsing back with a rush. The crowd that has gathered, phones raised, lets out a collective gasp every single time.
The area is a geothermal field, with hot springs, mud pools and vents steaming in the cold air, and the ground is coloured with yellow sulphur and orange mineral crusts. The smell of sulphur hangs over everything. Paths and ropes keep visitors away from the scalding water, and it is important to respect them, because the water can be near boiling and the ground edges can be fragile. Do not touch the water, and keep children close.
The ride into the valley is on Route 35 through the open farmland and low hills of the south, an easy road with long straights, gentle bends and big views of the mountains and, on a clear day, the glaciers of the interior. Traffic is heavy in summer, with tour buses on a fixed schedule and rental cars driven by people who are not used to Icelandic roads, so patience matters. Crosswinds can be strong on exposed sections. Early mornings and evenings are quieter and the light is lovely.
Across the road from the geothermal area is a large complex with shops, a restaurant and a cafe, so food and warm drinks are easy. It is the kind of place where you can get a bowl of soup and a hot chocolate, then buy a woollen hat you did not know you needed. For fuel, you should not count on it here, and the safer plan is to fill in Selfoss, Flúðir or Laugarvatn along the circle.
Gullfoss, the great two-stage waterfall of the Hvítá river, is only a short ride beyond, and the pair together make the heart of the Golden Circle. Watch Strokkur from the upwind side if you want to avoid a drenching, and check the forecast before you go, because it is not a place you want to be in freezing rain.