The word geyser comes from this place. The Great Geysir, in the Haukadalur valley in southwest Iceland, gave its name to every spouting hot spring in the world, though it has become mostly dormant, erupting only rarely after earthquakes. Its neighbour, Strokkur, does the work instead, throwing a column of boiling water fifteen to twenty metres into the air every five to ten minutes, preceded by a swelling blue dome of water that bursts without ceremony. The crowd gasps each time, and the smell of sulphur drifts across the field.
The whole area is a geothermal playground. The ground is stained yellow, orange and white by minerals, steam rises from vents, and pools of turquoise water bubble gently within circles of rock. The earth here is hot and thin, and paths with ropes keep visitors from wandering into scalding water, which is a rule worth taking seriously. Behind the field, a slope covered in grass and low shrubs rises to a ridge with a view down across the valley and the plains beyond. In the distance, the glacier Langjökull shows as a white line on clear days.
The road to the geyser follows Route 35 from the south, passing farms, greenhouses heated by geothermal water, and wide green valleys with Icelandic horses grazing. The surface is generally paved and in good condition, with long straight stretches and open views. Weather is the main variable. Wind can be strong, rain comes and goes in minutes, and temperatures can drop even in summer, so a waterproof and warm layers are essential. Speed limits are strictly enforced, with cameras and police, so keep to them.
Across the road from the geothermal field is a large complex with a restaurant, a shop and a gift area, which makes it an easy place for a coffee or a bowl of soup, though prices are Icelandic. Fuel is not available at the site itself, and the nearest town of any size is Selfoss, a good thirty kilometres or more away, so fill up on the way. The nearby waterfall of Gullfoss is only a short ride along the same road, and the two make a natural pair.
Stand upwind of Strokkur, because the spray and sulphur smell can drift over you. Watch the blue bulge swell before the eruption, and you will have time to raise your camera before it blows.