Genting Sempah is the doorway between the lowlands of Selangor and the cool, cloud-wrapped highlands of Pahang, and for riders leaving Kuala Lumpur it is the first sign that the road is about to get interesting. The pass sits on the state border, where the Karak Expressway rises in a long grade through dense rainforest, and a tunnel carries traffic through the ridge. A busy rest area on the old road serves petrol, snacks, roadside stalls and clean toilets, and it is popular with weekend riders who gather to compare machines and plans.
Above the pass rises Genting Highlands, a mountaintop resort at around 1,800 metres, reached by a winding road and by the Awana Skyway, one of the longest cable-car rides in Southeast Asia. The air up there is cool, often shrouded in mist, and a stark contrast to the heat of Kuala Lumpur. On the other side, the town of Bentong is known for its ginger and for durian in the fruiting season, usually June to August, when roadside stalls pile up the spiky fruit. Nearby Bukit Tinggi has a French-themed resort village, an odd surprise among the hills.
The riding is a mix of fast expressway and twisting hill roads. The old Karak road and the climb to Genting have broad, smooth bends and gentle gradients, while the road up to Fraser's Hill, an old hill station started by the British in the early twentieth century, is narrow, steep and one-way in places, with timed traffic. Rain is common, often in sudden, heavy downpours in the afternoon, and the road surface turns slick. Fog can reduce visibility on the heights, so ride with lights on and keep a good distance.
Fuel is easy to find on the expressway rest areas and in Bentong, and the stalls serve nasi lemak, satay and strong, sweet tea. Mornings are the best time, with cooler air and clear views. Bring a rain suit, since a shower is almost guaranteed.