The Geltinger Birk is the north-eastern tip of Angeln, a low, windy peninsula that pushes out into the Baltic where the Flensburg Fjord opens to the sea. It is one of the largest nature reserves on the Baltic coast of Schleswig-Holstein, a landscape of dunes, salt meadows, lagoons and old alder woodland, with large areas given over to semi-wild grazing. Hardy cattle and small horses roam the meadows, and their grazing keeps the land open and rich in flowers and insects. On a clear day, you can see across the water to the Danish island of Als.
The Birk is a bird place first. In spring and autumn huge flocks of migrating geese, ducks and waders pass through, resting in the shallow waters, and in winter the area holds many species that come from the far north. Birdwatchers set up scopes along the paths, and a quiet visitor can see white-tailed eagles, cranes and a wide variety of ducks. The sound of the wind in the reeds and the cry of gulls is constant. The air smells of salt, seaweed and cut grass.
The reserve itself is for walkers, so you leave the bike at the edge and go in on foot. Paths lead through the grazing land to the beach and the dune, and it is a flat, easy walk of an hour or two. Do bring a windproof jacket, as the wind blows hard from the sea, even in summer. The roads to the area are quiet and flat, with open views over fields and sky, and large windmills turn slowly in the distance. Farm vehicles are the main hazard, and gusts can push a light bike sideways.
There is little in the way of services at the coast edge. The villages of Gelting and Steinberg have small shops and a few places to eat, but for a full range of services the nearest larger town is Kappeln, on the Schlei, about twelve kilometres away, with fuel stations, supermarkets and a pretty harbour with a lifting bridge. Plan fuel before you head out to the coast, and take some water. Late afternoon, when the low sun brings out the colour in the meadows, is a lovely time to be here.