High above the Geirangerfjord, where the mountains flatten out into a bare plateau of lakes and bare rock, the road feels less like a fjord route and more like a journey across the roof of Norway. This point lies on that upland ground south of the fjord, on the approach to the descent into Geiranger, in country where trees give up and the snow often lingers well into June. The nearest sizeable villages, Stryn and Stranda, are both more than thirty kilometres away, and nothing in between sells fuel, so arrive with a full tank.
The riding up here is open and fast by Norwegian standards, with long straights and gentle curves between the lakes, and the air is thin enough and cool enough that you will feel it through your jacket even in midsummer. The edges of the road are marked with tall poles that the snow ploughs use as guides, and that tells you how serious the winter is. The pass is usually closed from late autumn until spring, so check before you go outside the summer season, and expect patches of mist and cold rain at any time.
What makes this stretch worth knowing is the geology and the view it prepares you for. These mountains are old, hard rocks ground down by ice into rounded domes, and the fjord below is a glacial trench that was later flooded by the sea. A short side road leads up to a high lookout above the fjord, which is a toll road and is open in the season, and the view from there, straight down to the water and the tiny ferries, is the one that explains why the area is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
The best time to ride is on a clear morning in July or August, when the road is dry and the light low enough to pick out the folds of the hills. Pull over at one of the little lay-bys, turn off the engine and listen; the quiet is remarkable, broken only by water running off the snow. Then carry on down toward the water, with fresh brakes and a low gear, because the next part is steep.