Geirangerfjord is one of those places where the photographs do not exaggerate. A narrow arm of the Storfjord, about fifteen kilometres long, it is squeezed between mountain walls that rise to well over a thousand metres, with waterfalls pouring down the cliffs. UNESCO listed it in 2005 along with the Nærøyfjord, and the tour ships that fill it in summer are a sign of how famous it has become.
The waterfalls have names, and the most famous are the Seven Sisters, a line of cascades on the south side, and the Suitor, which faces them across the water. Old farms, such as Skagehola and Knivsflå, cling to ledges high above the water, and it is hard to imagine how families once lived there, with children tethered by ropes so they would not fall. Most were abandoned in the twentieth century. The village at the head of the fjord is small and busy in season, and quiet when the ships leave.
The riding to get here is the real event. The road down from the north, the Eagle Road, drops through eleven hairpins with views of the fjord below, while the approach from the south crosses the mountain and descends in tight bends. A short toll road climbs from the village to Dalsnibba, a viewpoint at about 1,500 metres, which gives a huge panorama. Many of these roads close in winter because of snow, often from late autumn to around May, so check before you plan. Expect coaches and campervans in July, and be patient on narrow sections.
Fuel is a point to plan around. The village at the water is small, and the more reliable services lie further away, with Stranda about twenty-seven kilometres off and Stryn farther again, so arrive with a decent amount in the tank. The ferry between Hellesylt and Geiranger is a classic way to see the fjord, and a motorbike can ride onto it.
The best light comes in the early morning or late evening, when the crowds have thinned and the rock catches the sun low. Bring a waterproof, because mist and rain are part of the picture, and so is the smell of wet stone and spruce.