The Geirangerfjord is a narrow cut, around fifteen kilometres long, between cliffs that rise over a thousand metres from the water, and it is among the best-known sights in Norway. The village at its head, Geiranger, is tiny, with only a few hundred residents, but in summer, cruise ships anchor in the fjord one after another and the pier fills with people. UNESCO listed the fjord in 2005, along with Naeroyfjord, and a short walk along the shore brings you to the base of the Seven Sisters waterfall, which pours straight into the fjord from a high ledge.
For a rider, arriving in Geiranger is the best part of the trip. From Eidsdal in the north, the Eagle Road drops through eleven hairpins to the sea, with a grand view of the fjord from the top at Ornesvingen. From the south and east, the road comes down from the high plateau by Djupvatnet, past remote lakes and snow patches, and through a series of tight switchbacks. The Dalsnibba viewpoint, reached by a private toll road, takes you to about 1,500 metres, with a view straight down to the fjord. Roads here have narrow sections, steep gradients and plenty of campervans, so patience helps, and mountain roads usually open only from May to October, depending on snow.
The village itself is a good place for lunch or a waffle with brown cheese. Fuel is the thing to watch. Do not rely on finding it at every stop here, and plan to fill up in Stranda, about twenty-seven kilometres away, or in other larger towns on the route. Weather changes quickly, and a fjord can be sunny at the water and wet at the top.
There is also the ferry to Hellesylt, which carries motorcycles and gives you a different view of the cliffs from the water. Leave early in the morning, when the ships have not yet arrived, and the place feels much closer to what it was.