Gilan, on the Caspian side of the Alborz mountains in northern Iran, is a different world from the dry plateau most people imagine when they think of the country. It is green, damp and densely forested, with rice paddies on the coastal plain and tea gardens on the slopes. Rudkhan Castle stands in the forested hills south-west of Fuman, high on a ridge above a river valley, and it is one of the region's best loved historic sites.
The castle is a brick and stone fortress that follows the contours of two peaks, with walls and towers snaking through the trees. It is generally attributed to the Seljuk era or earlier, with later rebuilding, and its local nickname refers to its many steps: the climb up from the parking area through the forest takes a good half-hour or more, on stone stairs beside a rushing stream. Bring decent footwear, because the path is often wet. At the top, the views over the forested valleys are lovely, especially when mist hangs in the trees.
Riding in Iran is a serious undertaking. Visa and entry rules are complex, foreign motorcycle travellers usually need a carnet de passage for their own bike, and the political situation can change quickly. Check your own government's travel advice before planning anything. On the road, traffic is chaotic by European standards and you should ride defensively. That said, the roads of Gilan are scenic: the route from Fuman toward the hill village of Masuleh, with its houses stacked so that the roof of one forms the street of the next, climbs into the mountains through forest and is spectacular. Fog and rain are common, so expect slippery surfaces.
Fuman, about twenty-three kilometres away, has fuel and is known throughout Iran for its kolucheh, a small round cookie filled with walnut paste. Gilan's cuisine is distinctive, with lots of herbs, garlic, sour pomegranate and fish from the Caspian. Rasht, the provincial capital, is the main city for services. Spring and early summer are the best times to visit, when the forest is at its greenest.