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Garganta de la Hoz VII

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Everyone in Spain associates the hills north of Alicante with one thing: turrón. The town of Xixona, in the valley behind the coast, has been making the almond-and-honey nougat for centuries, and the soft, oily version, turrón blando, and the hard, brittle one, turrón duro, are shipped across the country at Christmas. Almonds grow all over these slopes, and you will pass many groves on a ride. Whether you pick up a box from a factory shop or a roadside stall, it is the right souvenir for a rider with a pannier.

The shelter at Garganta de la Hoz VII lies about fourteen kilometres from the coast, in the hills behind El Campello and Villajoyosa, and the ride links it with El Pantanet, the Little Reservoir. It carries painting in the Levantine tradition, protected by UNESCO as part of the rock art of the Mediterranean basin in Spain.

Water is scarce here, and the small reservoir is a reminder of how much effort has gone into keeping it. Alicante is one of the driest provinces in Spain, and for centuries farmers have built cisterns, channels and small dams to catch what rain falls, which is usually in a few violent bursts in autumn. The terraces of almond and carob that climb every slope were built for the same reason, to hold soil and water against the hill.

The roads in this district are a joy for a bike. They twist through the hills in tight bends, with views to the sea, and they rarely carry heavy traffic. Surfaces are mixed, and rain can wash gravel and mud across the road. Spring and autumn are best, and summer is hot, with temperatures that can top thirty-five degrees by noon.

Fuel is no problem at El Campello or Villajoyosa, both of which have plenty of stations, and San Juan de Alicante is also close. Bring water, a hat and a sense of curiosity.

Read it in a ride

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