Garda is the town that gave the lake its name, and it sits on the eastern shore, on a gentle bay sheltered by the headland of Punta San Vigilio and the hill of the Rocca, where a castle once stood. It is worth saying straight away that if your ride is a western shore ride, you are on the opposite side here; the lake is long and narrow, and the car ferry between Torri del Benaco, just north of Garda, and Toscolano Maderno on the western shore is the quickest way to get across. The crossing itself, with the mountains rising on both sides, is a lovely break.
The town is charming, with a long lakeside promenade lined with palm trees, cafés and restaurants, and a small old centre of narrow lanes and Venetian-style palazzi. The eastern shore is known as the Riviera degli Olivi, for its olive groves, and the area produces excellent olive oil, as well as Bardolino wine, a light red made in the hills just to the south. Lunch on the lakefront, with a glass of Bardolino and fish from the lake, is an easy pleasure.
The western shore, across the water, is more dramatic. The Gardesana Occidentale, the road along the western shore, runs through dozens of tunnels carved into the cliffs, with views over the lake. Above Campione del Garda, the Strada della Forra, which climbs through a narrow gorge to Tremosine, is often described as one of the most spectacular roads in the world, and it featured in the opening chase of the James Bond film Quantum of Solace. It is narrow, twisty and spectacular, with overhanging rock walls.
On the eastern shore, the road above Garda climbs onto the slopes of Monte Baldo, with fine views over the lake. Traffic around the lake can be very heavy in summer, especially on weekends, and the lakeside roads are slow, so plan to ride early in the morning or in the evening. Fuel and services are available in Garda and the surrounding towns. Come in May or late September if you can, when it is mild and far less crowded.