Garachico looks like a peaceful seaside town, and it is, but it is also a place that was nearly erased. In 1706 a volcanic eruption sent lava down the slopes behind the town and into the sea, filling the harbour that had made Garachico one of the main ports on Tenerife. The ships that used to sail from here now belong to the history books, and the town's fortunes shifted. What remains is a handsome settlement of old houses, a small fortress by the water, and a sea-edge where black lava has been shaped into natural swimming pools that locals still use.
You reach it by roads that come down from the highlands in curves and switchbacks, often with banana plantations and steep terraced farms on either side. About 6,000 people live in the municipality, which means fuel and food are not a problem, and the bigger centres of Icod de los Vinos and Los Silos are just a few kilometres away along the coast. Icod is famous for its enormous ancient dragon tree, which is worth a look if you have the time.
The riding in this north-western corner of Tenerife is some of the best on the island. The road toward Masca and the interior twists through narrow valleys, with hairpins that need respect and passing places that need patience, because tour buses and rental cars share the width. Early morning is the answer, before the traffic builds and while the light picks out the ravines. Weather is changeable: the north side catches cloud, and you can ride from sun at the coast into mist in the pines above, so a light jacket in the bag is sensible.
For something to eat, the seafront has a number of simple places serving fresh fish and the island's wrinkled potatoes with a red or green mojo sauce, and the local wines are worth trying in the evening. Park the bike near the old quarter, walk the cobbled streets under balconies, and look at the lava where the harbour used to be. It gives you a sense of scale that no viewpoint can.