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Ganghwa

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Namyangju, to the south-east, is a large satellite city of Seoul, with a mix of apartments, farmland and woods. The town has a quiet, semi-rural feel, with vegetable fields and small restaurants strung along the roads.

The ride that ended here came from Ganghwa Island, and the last stretch passes through the green belt of the capital's north-east. The roads are narrow and winding in the hills, wider and busier along the main routes, with a surface that is generally good. Bends are frequent, and the views over the river valley are pleasant, especially in autumn, when maples and ginkgo trees turn red and yellow. Weekend traffic builds on the roads from Seoul, so a weekday or early start is better.

Namyangju has some famous names. Dasan Jeong Yak-yong, a great scholar of the late Joseon dynasty, was born here and wrote a vast body of work on government, science and agriculture, and his house and a memorial hall stand beside the river. Unjongsa, a Buddhist temple on the mountain, is known for its old trees and a bronze bell and for a rocky hillside with Buddha figures. The Han river, here wide and slow, has bike paths on both banks and views of wooded hills.

Fuel and food are easy, with stations along the main road and many restaurants. The valley is known for its duck and for traditional Korean dishes served in garden settings, and the cafes by the river have long terraces. A plate of grilled duck, with vegetables and rice, is a traditional meal, and the restaurants here keep long hours at weekends.

Take a walk beside the river if the light is good. The Han here is calm and wide, and the hills across the water are soft in the evening.

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