On a low hill in eastern Serbia stand the remains of a palace built for a Roman emperor to retire to, and it never quite worked out that way. Galerius, one of the four rulers of the Roman world under Diocletian's system, was born in this region, and in the late third and early fourth century he had a fortified palace built near his birthplace and named it Felix Romuliana, after his mother, Romula. The walls, with their projecting towers and gates, enclosed temples, halls and baths, and the mosaic floors and carved fragments recovered by archaeologists show how splendid it was. Galerius died in 311, and he was buried here, in a mausoleum on a hill nearby, where two burial mounds still stand. The site is a World Heritage monument and one of the best-preserved late Roman palaces anywhere.
The surrounding country is quiet and open, in the valley of the Timok river between the mountains of the Stara Planina and the hills toward the Danube. It is a region of small farms, orchards and vineyards, with villages of low houses and a thin traffic, and Zaječar, the town about six kilometres away, is the local centre, with a few cafes and a museum. A small spa, Gamzigradska Banja, lies by the ruins, with sulphur water that locals say is good for the joints.
The riding is relaxed. Roads in eastern Serbia are usually quiet, with long gentle curves over low ridges, and the surface is a mixture of good and patched asphalt, where potholes and gravel at the edges require attention. The landscape grows more dramatic toward the Danube and Romania, with gorges and forest, and the route onward here crosses into Romania toward the Domogled and Cerna valley. Check border crossing opening hours and the paperwork needed for your bike and insurance before you set out, as eastern crossings can be slow in summer.
Fuel is easy in Zaječar, a town of about fifty thousand, and in Bor to the west, but smaller villages may have none, so keep the tank topped up. Food is generous, with grilled meat, peppers and cheese, and strong plum brandy offered with hospitality. Late afternoon light on the ruins is warm, and the site is usually quiet enough to be alone with the walls.