Morella rises from the plateau of the Ports like something from a dream: a walled town wrapped around a rocky hill, crowned by a castle, with the Gothic basilica of Santa María la Mayor in the middle, and two kilometres of medieval walls with towers and gates running around the base. It is one of the most impressive historic towns in Spain, and the Galeria del Roure, a rock shelter about four kilometres away, is part of the cluster of prehistoric sites around Morella, including Morella la Vella, one of the important rock-art sites of the Valencian region, all part of the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean rock art. The shelters are small and some are protected, so ask at the tourist office in town about visits.
Morella has a long and turbulent history. It was a Moorish stronghold, conquered by the Christians in the thirteenth century, and it played a role in the Carlist wars of the nineteenth century, when the general Ramón Cabrera made it his base. Every six years, the town holds the Sexenni, a festival with elaborate decorations of paper and flowers in the streets, dances and processions, in honour of the Virgin of Vallivana, who is said to have saved the town from a plague.
The riding around Morella is outstanding. The town is at the centre of a network of mountain roads through the Ports and the Maestrat, with endless curves, high passes and spectacular views. The road from Vinaròs on the coast up to Morella, via the Port de Querol, is a classic climb with long sweeping bends, and the roads to Forcall, Cinctorres, Ares del Maestrat and the Tinença de Benifassà are equally good. Traffic is light, but watch for livestock and gravel. The altitude is high, so winters are cold, with snow possible, and fog can roll in quickly; summer evenings are cool.
Morella has fuel, shops, restaurants and hotels, and the narrow streets of the old town are full of shops selling local products: cured meats, cheese, truffles in winter, and the traditional woollen blankets. The town is famous for its croquetas morellanas and for flaons, sweet pastries filled with curd cheese and almonds. The views from the castle over the surrounding countryside are unforgettable, especially at sunset.