Gabès is a port town on the south-eastern coast of Tunisia, and it has a trick up its sleeve: a palm oasis that runs right down to the sea. People say it is the only coastal oasis in the Mediterranean, and when you stand under the date palms with pomegranates and bananas growing beneath and the sound of irrigation water in the channels, you can believe it. The oasis is also the source of henna, which has been grown and sold here for a very long time, and the stalls of the souq are packed with the dried leaves, powdered and bagged.
It is a hard-working city, not a tourist one. There is a large industrial zone with phosphate processing on the shore, and the air and sea have suffered, which is a serious local issue. The centre has a lively market, a long avenue, cheap cafes, and shops that sell everything from spices to scooters. Fuel stations are everywhere, as are cash machines and places to eat grilled fish, so it is an easy start. Fill the tank and take water before you leave, because the road into the interior thins out quickly.
The ride from here goes inland and up into the Dahar hills, a rocky tableland of ochre and grey that rises from the coastal plain. After a short run through olive groves, the road starts to climb in loose bends towards the Berber village of Matmata, famous for its underground houses, dug into pits in the soft rock to escape the heat. One of these houses was used as a film location for Luke Skywalker's home on Tatooine in Star Wars, and visitors still arrive to see it. Real families still live in some of the underground rooms.
Tarmac is generally decent, but sand can blow across the road, and there can be loose gravel on the shoulders and goats in the middle of it. In summer, heat can reach well over forty degrees, so start early. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, with clear skies and long visibility. Ride with a good hydration plan, wear light but protective gear, and watch for the police checkpoints that are common on Tunisian roads, where a polite greeting and your documents will usually do the job.