The Futaleufú river is the colour of a swimming pool in a dream, an intense milky turquoise that comes from glacial silt carried down from the Andes, and it is one of the most famous whitewater rivers in the world. Rafters and kayakers come from across the globe to take on its rapids, some of which are rated at the highest level of difficulty. The river runs through a valley on the Chilean side of the border with Argentina, and the town of Futaleufú, a tidy collection of low houses with a village square, sits on its banks.
The roads here are among the least travelled in Chile, and that is what makes them special. A branch of the Carretera Austral leads to the town from the main highway, and gravel and paved sections alternate as the road follows the river through forest and farmland. Mountains rise on all sides, snow-capped in winter, and in early summer the meadows are bright with lupins. Along the way, the road passes lakes of equally improbable blue, and the light on the water in the afternoon is superb. The surfaces vary, so check conditions and keep your speed down on gravel, where loose stones and corners can surprise you.
The border is close. Argentina lies just over the ridge, and the Argentine town of Trevelin, about thirty-four kilometres away, is the nearest place of any size, with a Welsh heritage dating from the settlement of Patagonia by Welsh colonists in the nineteenth century. Crossing the border requires passports, vehicle papers and sometimes a bit of patience, and the rules for motorcycles should be checked in advance. The Los Alerces National Park on the Argentine side protects ancient alerce trees, some of them thousands of years old.
Fuel is a point to plan carefully. The town of Futaleufú is small and has limited services, so fill up before you get here, and carry extra if you can. Food is straightforward, with grilled meat, empanadas and fresh bread, and a few small guesthouses and cafés serve travellers. Prices are modest, but cash is useful.
Rain can arrive suddenly, with cold wind off the mountains, and temperatures drop fast in the evening. Bring waterproofs and a warm layer, and give yourself extra time. The valley deserves it, because this is the sort of landscape where every bend shows another view worth stopping for.