Furano lies in the middle of Hokkaido, in a basin ringed by the Tokachi mountains and the Yubari range, and it is known for lavender. The fields of Farm Tomita and the surrounding farms turn purple in July, and visitors come from across Japan to see them. The climate here is continental, with hot summers and cold, snowy winters, and the long hours of summer light let farmers grow lavender, melons, potatoes and onions. The town is small, and the settlement of Shimo-furano is right beside it, while Ashibetsu, a former coal town, lies thirty kilometres or so away.
The landscape is different from the rest of Japan. Fields stretch in tidy patches of colour, which gives the road its patchwork name, hedged by lines of poplars and set against the dark volcanic profile of Mount Tokachi in the distance. The roads are straight and gently rolling, with the occasional curve around a hill, and the surface is generally excellent. Hokkaido is a favourite with touring riders because of the space and the low traffic, and in summer there are many bikers on the island. Watch for deer, foxes and the occasional bear, though sightings near the main roads are rare.
Hokkaido was settled by Japanese farmers mainly in the late nineteenth century, and before that the island was the land of the Ainu people, whose language gave many places their names. Furano itself comes from the Ainu word for stinky, probably for a smelly river. The food is excellent: dairy products, sweet corn, melons and Furano wine, plus the soup curry that Sapporo made famous, and ramen with butter and corn.
For practical matters, Furano has fuel stations, convenience stores and many cafes. In July, lavender season brings crowds, and accommodation books up, so reserve ahead. Alternatively, go in June for fresh green fields, or in September for harvest and clear air. In winter the town becomes a ski resort, with powder snow that is famous among skiers. Early evening light on the fields is soft and golden, and it is a lovely time for a final slow ride.