The Fundy Trail Parkway is a short, slow, beautiful road along one of the wildest stretches of the Bay of Fundy, and it is built for looking rather than for speed. The parkway runs along the cliffs east of St Martins, through the Fundy Biosphere Reserve, with lookouts, short trails and a suspension bridge across the Big Salmon River, and the speed limit is low enough that you can take in the views without being hurried. It is a toll road, with an admission fee collected at the gate, and it is open seasonally, normally from spring to autumn.
The coast here is rugged, with steep forested slopes dropping to the sea, rocky headlands, and small beaches of pebbles and driftwood. At high tide, waves surge against the base of the cliffs, and at low tide the exposed seabed shows ribbons of seaweed and rock pools. The parkway is part of a long-term project to open a section of the coast that had no road, and the road was designed to blend into the landscape, with careful curves, stone guard walls and viewing platforms.
For motorcyclists, the ride is a pleasure in the way a gentle, scenic drive can be. The bends are smooth and well graded, the surface is excellent, and the gradients are steady, so you can enjoy the rhythm of the ride. In places the road climbs above the water, and the views stretch to the horizon. Take care in fog, which can come in without warning and reduce visibility to a few metres, and keep an eye out for wildlife, including moose, deer and bears, which sometimes cross the road. The suspension footbridge at the Big Salmon River is a good stop, where a walk across the gorge gives a view of the river meeting the sea.
The history of the coast is a story of logging, shipbuilding and isolated communities. In the nineteenth century, loggers floated timber down the rivers to sawmills at the coast, and the remains of old wharves and dams can still be seen in places. The tides here are among the highest in the world, and the water in the bay is cold, grey-green and always moving. Walkers can follow trails to quiet beaches, and in the autumn the forest above is a patchwork of red maple and yellow birch.
The nearest services are at St Martins, a short distance west, with Hampton and Sussex further inland, so fill the tank before you enter. A small interpretive centre and a cafe offer food and information, but the opening hours are seasonal. Allow at least two hours, and bring a layer for the sea breeze.