Funchal climbs the sides of a natural amphitheatre on the south coast of Madeira, and from the harbour the houses rise in tiers into the green mountains behind. It is the island's capital, with about a hundred thousand people, and the name comes from funcho, the Portuguese word for fennel, which grew wild here when the first settlers arrived in the fifteenth century. Sugar made the island rich, then wine, and the legacy of both still shows in the tall merchant houses and the church interiors covered in gilded wood.
Madeira wine is the thing to try, a fortified wine heated during ageing, which gives it a caramel richness and a remarkable ability to last for decades. The old lodges in the town offer tastings. The Mercado dos Lavradores, the farmers' market, sells tropical fruit, flowers and fish, including the black scabbardfish, espada, which is a local favourite and is often served with banana. Poncha, a drink of rum, honey and lemon, is the local welcome. The toboggan runs, where men in straw hats guide wicker sledges down the hill from Monte, have been a tourist attraction since the nineteenth century.
The ride out is spectacular and demanding. The island is a mass of steep volcanic mountains, and the roads cling to the slopes, with sharp bends, short tunnels and sudden drops. The ER101 along the north coast passes waterfalls, laurel forest and cliffs, and the high roads near Pico do Arieiro, at around 1,800 metres, run above the clouds. The surface is generally good but can be slippery when wet, and fog and rain arrive suddenly, particularly in the mountains. Traffic in Funchal is dense, with steep streets and tight junctions, so the early miles need care.
Fuel and services are all here. Funchal has many stations, and others lie in villages around the island, but the north and west are quiet and stations are fewer, so fill up before heading out. The temperature is mild all year, with warm summers and little frost except at the highest points, and the best months are spring and autumn.
On your return, the lights of the city climbing the slopes make a fine sight. Look for a table with a view and order something grilled.