Fukushima is a city of fruit. Its basin, ringed by mountains, produces peaches, pears, apples and grapes, and in spring the slopes are pink and white with blossom. It is the start and the end of the Bandai-Azuma Skyline ride, and the first view of the mountains is a promise.
The Bandai-Azuma Skyline is a toll road that climbs from Tsuchiyu hot spring up to a high plateau at around sixteen hundred metres, where the road runs across a volcanic landscape of bare rock, steam vents and alpine plants. The bends are wide and open, the surface is excellent, and the views on a clear day are extensive. The road is closed in winter, usually from late November until April, and fog and wind can be dramatic at the top. Autumn colours, in October, are the best time to ride. Traffic is moderate, though weekends in the leaf season are busy.
Fukushima has a rich culture. The old castle town has a quiet centre with a museum, and Iizaka hot spring, to the north, has public baths where you can bathe in the soft, hot water. The area is also known for its sake and its peaches, which are sold in summer at roadside stalls. The region suffered in 2011 from the earthquake and nuclear accident, and the recovery has been long, but the countryside is open and welcoming. Mount Shinobu, a small hill in the city, has a park and a sweeping view.
Fuel and food are no problem in Fukushima, which has stations, supermarkets and restaurants, and it is wise to fill up before heading into the mountains, where stations are few. Local dishes include ramen, with a simple soy broth, and ika ninjin, a dish of squid and carrot.
Linger at the station if you arrive by train, and look at the Azuma range. The shape of the mountains explains the road ahead.