Mount Fuji has been worshipped as a sacred mountain for as long as people have lived beneath it, and the Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha in Fujinomiya is the head shrine of that worship, the principal sanctuary of over a thousand Sengen shrines across Japan. Its main hall, rebuilt in the early seventeenth century under the patronage of Tokugawa Ieyasu, has an unusual two-storey design, painted in vermilion and set among tall trees. The shrine is dedicated to Konohanasakuya-hime, a goddess associated with the mountain, with blossoms and with fire.
On a clear day, the view of Fuji from the shrine grounds is magnificent, the great cone rising above the town. In the grounds is Wakutama Pond, fed by springs of crystal-clear water that has filtered through the volcanic rock of the mountain for years. The water is cold and pure, and locals fill bottles there. Remarkably, the shrine also owns the summit of Fuji itself, above the eighth station, a fact recognised by the Japanese courts. The shrine is part of the Fujisan UNESCO World Heritage site, listed in 2013 as a place of worship and source of artistic inspiration.
Fujinomiya is a pleasant small city, famous across Japan for its yakisoba, fried noodles with a chewy texture, sold in stalls around town. Try them at lunchtime, preferably with a view of the mountain.
The riding around Fuji is spectacular. The Fuji Skyline climbs from the Fujinomiya side up to the fifth station on the mountain's southern flank, a superb road with hairpins and views; it is open only in the summer climbing season, and access to the upper part may be restricted to shuttle buses at peak times. Route 139 runs north across the Asagiri plateau, with dairy farms and wide views of the mountain, towards the Fuji Five Lakes. The roads around the lakes are popular and can be busy at weekends, but the scenery is extraordinary.
Fujinomiya has fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. The weather around Fuji is changeable: the mountain often hides in cloud, especially in summer, and the best views are in the clear, cold air of winter mornings, though the higher roads may be closed by snow and ice. Spring and autumn offer pleasant riding temperatures. Arrive early to see Fuji before the clouds gather.