On the eastern side of Mount Fuji, in the village of Subashiri, a shrine has stood at the start of the pilgrims' path for more than a thousand years. The Fuji Sengen shrine, often called Higashiguchi Hongū, the eastern main shrine, marks the beginning of the Subashiri trail to the summit, and pilgrims traditionally prayed here before starting their climb. The shrine is set in a forest of tall cedars and old trees, with a red gate, wooden halls and a quiet, spiritual atmosphere, and it is one of the components of the Fujisan UNESCO site, recognised as part of the mountain's cultural and religious landscape.
The Sengen shrines are dedicated to Konohanasakuya-hime, the goddess of Mount Fuji, a blossom princess associated with cherry trees and volcanoes, and the worship of the mountain, Fuji-kō, was a popular religious movement in the Edo period, when groups of pilgrims from Edo, now Tokyo, made the climb as a spiritual practice. Their names and marks can still be found on stones and lanterns around the shrine.
The riding around this side of Fuji is excellent. From Gotemba, roads climb toward Subashiri and the fifth station of the Subashiri trail, through forests and with views of the mountain, and the road is open to private vehicles outside the climbing season restrictions, which apply to some roads in summer. The Lake Yamanaka area, north of Subashiri, has roads circling the lake and climbing over the Kagosaka pass, and the Hakone area to the southeast, with its winding roads, hot springs and views of Fuji over Lake Ashi, is a famous riding destination. Traffic can be heavy on weekends and holidays, and the weather on the mountain changes quickly, with fog and rain common. Winter brings snow and road closures at higher altitudes.
Gotemba, about nine kilometres away, is a city with fuel, shops, restaurants and a huge outlet mall that draws crowds from Tokyo. Subashiri has small shops and restaurants near the shrine, selling local specialities like grilled river fish and soba noodles. Hot spring baths in the area are a wonderful way to relax after a ride, though some do not admit people with tattoos, so check beforehand.