Fujikawaguchiko and Fujiyoshida stand a few kilometres either side of this stop, and between them the northern face of Mount Fuji dominates everything. The Fuji Five Lakes, strung along the foot of the volcano, are the usual base for people who want a view of the mountain, and the whole district has grown up around tourism, with inns, restaurants and shops catering to hikers, photographers and bus tours. It is a busy place in season, but the food is worth the crowds.
The speciality is hoto, a thick, flat noodle stewed in a miso broth with pumpkin and vegetables, served bubbling in an iron pot. It is the signature dish of Yamanashi prefecture, said to have been eaten by the warlord Takeda Shingen's soldiers, and it is a warming meal after a cold ride. Fujiyoshida has its own noodle, a firm, chewy udon served with cabbage and a spicy paste, that is cheap and filling. Both are worth trying, and there is usually no need to book, though lunchtime queues are common.
The landscape here is shaped by the volcano. The forest of Aokigahara, to the west, grew on lava that flowed from Fuji in the ninth century, and the ground beneath is a maze of caves and tubes. Some of the caves are open to visitors, and the cold, dark interiors make a strange contrast to the sun outside. The lakes themselves were formed when lava dammed river valleys, and each has its own character, from the busy shore of Kawaguchi to the quiet waters of Motosu, which appears on the Japanese 1000 yen note.
For riders, the lakes offer easy touring, with good roads and many places to stop. The best views of Fuji come in winter and early spring, and in the early morning, when the air is cold and clear. In summer, cloud often hides the mountain from midday. Fuel is plentiful in both towns, which have twenty to fifty thousand people. On a weekend in cherry blossom or autumn colour season, the roads around the lakes become very crowded, and parking near the popular viewpoints is difficult. Weekdays are far better, and a late afternoon visit can be lovely, with golden light on the water.