Nerpio is the kind of place that makes you check the map twice. It sits at the head of the Taibilla valley in the far south-west of Albacete province, on a high plateau more than a kilometre above sea level, in the Sierra de Segura, surrounded by mountains and reachable only by long and winding roads. The village is small, with about 1,600 people, and the countryside around it is a mix of cherry orchards, almond groves, pasture and pine forest, with limestone crags and the cold, clear water of the Taibilla river cutting through the valley floor.
For students of rock art, it is a celebrated place. The shelters of the Nerpio area hold what is one of the densest concentrations of Levantine paintings in all of Spain, with dozens of sites scattered through the ravines. Many are small shelters with figures of goats, deer, archers and hunters in red and black pigment. They belong to the UNESCO-listed Mediterranean rock art, and access is strictly controlled. Enquire in Nerpio itself, where local guides and the council may be able to arrange visits, and do not try to find sites by yourself, as the paintings are fragile and many are on protected land.
The riding to Nerpio is the real attraction. Roads wind up through the sierra, with long climbs, hairpins and fine views over the valley, and you are likely to share them with few other vehicles. The surface can be rough in places, and rockfall after heavy rain is possible, so take care. In winter the plateau gets cold and snow can close roads, while summer is warm and dry in the day with cool nights. Late spring, when cherry blossom is out, and October are particularly lovely.
Fuel is the concern. The nearest town of any size in the data is Moratalla, about 29 km away, and Yeste, a smaller place, is closer, so fill the tank and carry cash before you head up. Local specialities include cherries in season, goat dishes and the hearty mountain stews of the Segura country. The stars at night in this region are among the clearest in Spain, so if you stay in the village, look up.