High in the Sierra del Taibilla, in the borderland hills between Moratalla and Nerpio, the shelters of Fuente del Sabuco hold Levantine paintings of hunters, archers and animals, part of the rich rock art of this remote corner where Andalusia, Murcia and Castilla-La Mancha meet. Nerpio and Moratalla between them hold a remarkable number of painted shelters, making this one of the key centres of rock art in Spain, and an interpretation centre in the village explains the paintings and organises visits. The shelter is part of the Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin World Heritage listing.
Nerpio sits in the valley of the Taibilla river, surrounded by mountains covered in pine and holm oak, and it is famous for its walnuts: the valley's ancient walnut trees, some of them centuries old, produce nuts that are highly prized. The village is small and quiet, with white houses and narrow streets, and the landscape around is a mix of terraced fields, orchards and wild mountain slopes. Golden eagles and griffon vultures soar over the cliffs, and the night skies, far from any city, are spectacular.
The roads here are narrow, winding and almost empty, a paradise for riders who enjoy remote mountain roads. The road from Nerpio over the mountains to Yeste, with its castle, and on to the Sierra de Segura, is a classic, and the road south to the Andalusian border is equally rewarding. Surfaces vary, with rough patches and gravel, and the weather can change quickly in the mountains, with summer thunderstorms building fast over the peaks. May and early October are the sweetest months.
Fuel is scarce in these mountains, so fill up in Moratalla, Yeste or Caravaca de la Cruz before heading into the hills. The villages have a few bars and restaurants serving mountain food, and the walnuts of Nerpio are a must. Carry water and warm clothing, as the nights can be cold even in summer. The interpretation centre in Nerpio explains the rock art of the area and organises guided visits to some of the shelters.