Lamure-sur-Azergues is a small village in the upper valley of the Azergues, in the Haut-Beaujolais, the wild, wooded northern part of the Beaujolais hills. This is not the country of vineyards that most people associate with the name: up here the hills are covered with forests of Douglas fir and beech, with pastures and small farms in the clearings. The Azergues river winds through a narrow valley, and the villages are small and scattered.
The area has a long history of timber and textiles. In the nineteenth century, small workshops in the valleys wove silk and cotton for the factories of Lyon and Tarare, and some old mills survive along the rivers. Today, the economy is based on forestry, farming and tourism.
As a start and fuel stop, treat Lamure as the last easy chance: once you climb into the hills, services become scarce, and if in doubt fill up in Villefranche-sur-Saône or Tarare before heading up the valley. The roads here are superb: they climb from the valley to passes like the Col des Écharmeaux and the Col de Crie, winding through forest with endless bends, good surfaces and very little traffic. The views from the ridges stretch over the Saône valley to the Alps on clear days.
Weather can change quickly in the Haut-Beaujolais, with fog and rain common, especially in autumn and winter. In summer, the forests provide welcome shade. Food options in the upper valley are limited and hours can be short, so a bakery stop in the morning is a wise insurance policy.