Frutillar looks as if a piece of Bavaria had been dropped on the shore of a Chilean lake, and in a way it was. German settlers arrived in southern Chile in the mid nineteenth century, invited by the government to colonise the forested south, and they built wooden houses with steep roofs and neat gardens on the western shore of Lago Llanquihue. Their descendants still run bakeries that sell kuchen, the cakes made with berries and cream, and the town keeps a quiet, tidy air.
The lake is enormous, the second largest in Chile, with a surface that stretches to the horizon and a backdrop of volcanoes. Across the water, the cone of Osorno rises in a nearly perfect shape, capped with snow, while Calbuco, rougher and more menacing, stands to the right. On a clear day the view is superb, and the lakeside promenade is the best place to take it in. The theatre on the shore, built in modern times, hosts classical music events and has become a major cultural venue in the region, a surprising presence in a small town.
The ride along the lake is a pleasure. The road follows the shoreline from Puerto Varas through farmland and small settlements, with views opening and closing as the road dips and rises. It is generally smooth, with gentle bends, and traffic can be heavy on summer weekends. Cyclists are common, and so are tractors and trucks hauling milk and timber. The weather is changeable, with wind off the lake and showers that pass in minutes, so a light rain jacket is useful.
Frutillar has a few shops and cafes but no big supermarkets; Puerto Varas, about twenty kilometres away, has more choice if you need to stock up. The German heritage shows in the German museum, with a reconstructed settler's house, mill and water-powered machines in a park above the town, and gives a clear picture of how the colonists lived.
Try the kuchen, particularly in the afternoon, when it is served with strong coffee. Sit outside if the weather allows, and watch Osorno change colour as the light shifts.